Four months, unbelievable! And this will probably be last post of the year too… My New Year resolution should most decidedly be to write more regularly!
Two things made me come back to this rather neglected piece of cyberspace… the first was some genuine appreciation showered, quite undeservedly, especially in light of my recent disappearance, of this blog by a friend I met after a good 10 years, at a college reunion. The other was an observation I couldn’t help making while traveling in the Delhi Metro.
I love the Delhi Metro… this city badly needs better public transport, and having seen how well trains work in Mumbai, I always thought the Metro would be a great idea for Delhi. Don’t get me wrong, I have no idea whether it is the ‘ideal’ solution, nor do I know whether all the people displaced or otherwise affected by the Metro have been adequately compensated. What I do know is that the trains are fast, and they criss cross the city connecting the farthest corners, making traveling much easier (and yes, this is relatively speaking, have you ever tried getting onto the buses in Delhi?) So in that sense, the Metro is fantastic.
Besides, having travelled to Japan, and extensively in the trains there, I have realized how well a good train network can work. So what’s irking me? The design of the train! I find it strange that in a country like India, with the number of people that take public transport, the jokers have provided exactly one rod with handles to hold onto in the centre of the train. So of course the vast majority of the people do balancing acts and fall over each other every time the train starts and stops. I can imagine providing such few handles in other countries where there may not be as many people per train. But here? In Delhi? Its criminal! Haven’t they learnt anything from the Mumbai locals? I just don’t understand this lack of basic design sensibility… there is something like adapting to context! Is someone from the Delhi Metro listening?
Showing posts with label Delhi. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Delhi. Show all posts
Sunday, December 27, 2009
Tuesday, August 14, 2007
saddi Dilli, amchi Mumbai
I have often found myself at the centre of a Delhi versus Mumbai argument, given that I was born and brought up in the former, and have now made the latter my home. Let me state at the outset that I love both. Both cities have their strengths and weaknesses, and it’s unfair to compare two entities so different in nature.
Delhi has been synonymous with home forever. We shifted to Delhi in 1982, if memory serves me correctly, and my family still stays there. I have seen the city grow exponentially, both vertically and horizontally, with buildings in the city growing taller by the day, and boundaries of the city expanding with every new master plan. Delhi is no longer a city but a recognized State, with its own legislature and government. And there is an entity called the National Capital Region (NCR), which includes the neighboring satellite towns of Faridabad and Gurgaon in Haryana, and NOIDA and Ghaziabad in Uttar Pradesh.
Mumbai, growing equally exponentially (I’m sure there’s data to say which is growing faster, but that isn’t of as much concern to me) seems on the other hand, to be favouring the vertical route. With land in short supply, and the disadvantage of being a coastal city, so that it cannot possibly expand much in the direction of the sea (although God knows they keep trying by reclaiming more and more land,) it has turned to the sky to accommodate it’s ever increasing population, and its growing demands. It is the capital of Maharashtra and the seat of its State government.
But these things don’t interest me. I am more of a people person. And therefore to me, the most defining characteristic of any city is its people and their environment. And the people of Delhi are a mixed lot. It’s truly a cosmopolitan city and that reflects in its demography. So even though the majority of the people are North Indian, one finds in this city people from all parts of the country, speaking their different languages and bringing with them their unique cultures.
A large proportion of the original inhabitants of Mumbai were and continue to be, Marathi and Gujarati speaking i.e. belonging to the states of Maharashtra and Gujarat. And much like Delhi, many peoples from many parts of the country have settled here.
In spite of this similarity, I find the people of Mumbai a lot friendlier and warm hearted than Delhi. The common man on the street is a lot more pleasant and approachable, as also honest and helpful. The women though are something else altogether. The women of both cities are mostly similar in characteristics, as can be expected, but somehow Mumbai women are a lot more aggressive.
The two cities work at different paces. Mumbai makes Delhi seem laid back in comparison. Neither seems to sleep, whatever the hour of the day, but Mumbai scores over Delhi as regards nightlife. Most significantly, at least for me, Mumbai offers to its women, the chance to have a nightlife even unescorted.
Also the women in Mumbai are able to exercise a lot more freedom in the way they dress. There is no denying how utterly and shamelessly lecherous the Delhi man can be. This leaves one with no choice but to dress relatively more conservatively so as not to attract too much attention. I talk here of course, of the very middle class women, such as myself, who often use public transport to do their traveling.
Strangely enough, public transport in Delhi, where it is possibly most essential, is not divided along gender lines. The backbone of Delhi are its buses, and now along some routes, the Metro, but neither has separate compartments or areas marked for women, as say is the case in the trains in Mumbai or the buses in Bangalore. Mumbai trains have separate bogies for women though its buses are more unisex. The buses in Bangalore have a system wherein women use the front part of the bus, using the single door in front for both entry and exit, while the men use the back part.
These divisions ensure that during peak rush hour, all the jostling is happening amongst women and men separately. This, though I found very strange and surprising at first, especially when traveling with friends in Mumbai when we would separate out at the originating station and reconverge at the destination station, has grown on me with time. Anybody who has faced the squeezing and pinching on crowded DTC buses, followed by the inevitable altercations and much swearing, would prefer the separation, gender equality be damned.
These are some observations based on dealing with the people of the two cities. I find the visible character, notably in terms of its architecture and street culture, also very distinct and different. I’ll save that for another post.
Delhi has been synonymous with home forever. We shifted to Delhi in 1982, if memory serves me correctly, and my family still stays there. I have seen the city grow exponentially, both vertically and horizontally, with buildings in the city growing taller by the day, and boundaries of the city expanding with every new master plan. Delhi is no longer a city but a recognized State, with its own legislature and government. And there is an entity called the National Capital Region (NCR), which includes the neighboring satellite towns of Faridabad and Gurgaon in Haryana, and NOIDA and Ghaziabad in Uttar Pradesh.
Mumbai, growing equally exponentially (I’m sure there’s data to say which is growing faster, but that isn’t of as much concern to me) seems on the other hand, to be favouring the vertical route. With land in short supply, and the disadvantage of being a coastal city, so that it cannot possibly expand much in the direction of the sea (although God knows they keep trying by reclaiming more and more land,) it has turned to the sky to accommodate it’s ever increasing population, and its growing demands. It is the capital of Maharashtra and the seat of its State government.
But these things don’t interest me. I am more of a people person. And therefore to me, the most defining characteristic of any city is its people and their environment. And the people of Delhi are a mixed lot. It’s truly a cosmopolitan city and that reflects in its demography. So even though the majority of the people are North Indian, one finds in this city people from all parts of the country, speaking their different languages and bringing with them their unique cultures.
A large proportion of the original inhabitants of Mumbai were and continue to be, Marathi and Gujarati speaking i.e. belonging to the states of Maharashtra and Gujarat. And much like Delhi, many peoples from many parts of the country have settled here.
In spite of this similarity, I find the people of Mumbai a lot friendlier and warm hearted than Delhi. The common man on the street is a lot more pleasant and approachable, as also honest and helpful. The women though are something else altogether. The women of both cities are mostly similar in characteristics, as can be expected, but somehow Mumbai women are a lot more aggressive.
The two cities work at different paces. Mumbai makes Delhi seem laid back in comparison. Neither seems to sleep, whatever the hour of the day, but Mumbai scores over Delhi as regards nightlife. Most significantly, at least for me, Mumbai offers to its women, the chance to have a nightlife even unescorted.
Also the women in Mumbai are able to exercise a lot more freedom in the way they dress. There is no denying how utterly and shamelessly lecherous the Delhi man can be. This leaves one with no choice but to dress relatively more conservatively so as not to attract too much attention. I talk here of course, of the very middle class women, such as myself, who often use public transport to do their traveling.
Strangely enough, public transport in Delhi, where it is possibly most essential, is not divided along gender lines. The backbone of Delhi are its buses, and now along some routes, the Metro, but neither has separate compartments or areas marked for women, as say is the case in the trains in Mumbai or the buses in Bangalore. Mumbai trains have separate bogies for women though its buses are more unisex. The buses in Bangalore have a system wherein women use the front part of the bus, using the single door in front for both entry and exit, while the men use the back part.
These divisions ensure that during peak rush hour, all the jostling is happening amongst women and men separately. This, though I found very strange and surprising at first, especially when traveling with friends in Mumbai when we would separate out at the originating station and reconverge at the destination station, has grown on me with time. Anybody who has faced the squeezing and pinching on crowded DTC buses, followed by the inevitable altercations and much swearing, would prefer the separation, gender equality be damned.
These are some observations based on dealing with the people of the two cities. I find the visible character, notably in terms of its architecture and street culture, also very distinct and different. I’ll save that for another post.
Monday, August 6, 2007
Of coffees and conversations past midnight...
There is this phenomenon in Bombay that I haven’t found anywhere else, and that I love… the coffee and cigarette wallahs on cycles that you find standing at roadsides all over the city, late into the night and till the wee hours of the morning. It reminds me of an occasion not so long ago, when I was at a friend’s place in Delhi, meeting up with people I hadn’t seen for many years. The conversation was still going strong, and it was 1am already. I was dying for a cup of coffee but my friend wouldn’t let me make it. He said the sounds from the kitchen would wake up his mother, and then she would insist on making coffee for us, which of course was out of the question since she had been working all day already. The occasion you see was Id, and we had gone across for the feast that has been customary on the occasion at Amin’s place for years now.
But then I was meeting Amin and Punit after many years, and Punit’s wife Kriti, for the first time. And adorable as those two seniors of mine are, they decided that coffee I shall have, come what may. So off we went at that unearthly hour, to look for a measly little cup of coffee. To Noida at first, to two hotels that they thought would have 24 hour coffee shops. One was closed for renovation and the other was just closing, they couldn’t serve us, sorry. And then to Connaught Place, where in only our third attempt (thankfully), we found a coffee shop that was open, and served some utterly disgraceful coffee.
So we paid five star rates for four cups of teas and coffees of varying degrees of respectability, but mostly I guess for the experience of it, the driving around the city and the adventure that was finding those elusive cups!
Contrast this with another occasion, also not so long ago, only this time the setting is Yari road, Andheri. Another set of seniors, this time from FTII and another long night of gupshup. And then the customary running out of cigarettes. So the last few of us still standing step out in the cold, fresh night air of 4am. And go across to the friendly neighbourhood cyclewallah. The smokers, Nilanjan and Kutty get their cigarettes and all three of us enjoy cups of lovely strong coffee. Ok, it may not be the best coffee in the world, and I do admit I’m no authority on the matter. But then again, try having that cup, at 4 am, sitting on the footpath with friends, and discussing films and friends and life and the future. It’s the experience of it… And the beauty of this already priceless experience? It’s cheap!
But then I was meeting Amin and Punit after many years, and Punit’s wife Kriti, for the first time. And adorable as those two seniors of mine are, they decided that coffee I shall have, come what may. So off we went at that unearthly hour, to look for a measly little cup of coffee. To Noida at first, to two hotels that they thought would have 24 hour coffee shops. One was closed for renovation and the other was just closing, they couldn’t serve us, sorry. And then to Connaught Place, where in only our third attempt (thankfully), we found a coffee shop that was open, and served some utterly disgraceful coffee.
So we paid five star rates for four cups of teas and coffees of varying degrees of respectability, but mostly I guess for the experience of it, the driving around the city and the adventure that was finding those elusive cups!
Contrast this with another occasion, also not so long ago, only this time the setting is Yari road, Andheri. Another set of seniors, this time from FTII and another long night of gupshup. And then the customary running out of cigarettes. So the last few of us still standing step out in the cold, fresh night air of 4am. And go across to the friendly neighbourhood cyclewallah. The smokers, Nilanjan and Kutty get their cigarettes and all three of us enjoy cups of lovely strong coffee. Ok, it may not be the best coffee in the world, and I do admit I’m no authority on the matter. But then again, try having that cup, at 4 am, sitting on the footpath with friends, and discussing films and friends and life and the future. It’s the experience of it… And the beauty of this already priceless experience? It’s cheap!
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